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How much longer will Anthony Vaccarello be able to follow the blueprint his predecessor laid out before customers seek out the original? Take Hedi Slimane… Indeed, it’s a well-oiled machine. The pieces may be spiffily shown on the runway by those pink-haired, unicorn earringed-models, but take them apart and you find hip, wearable clothing. Teen Knight Poem, as the collection was called, was a little softer than spring’s Dancing Kid—the viral dancer’s goth cousin who dreams up some kind of supersad version of the Bussit Challenge staged to a chopped and screwed remix of The Cure’s “Lovesong.” The show was shot at Chambord—home to that famous staircase that wraps around itself like a double helix, but also the ’70s interlocking Celine logo that Slimane brought back when he started with the brand. The 111 looks he sent down Celine’s Fall/Winter 2020 co-ed runway show in Paris last night made that clear. It’s time to lean in like we’re in a 1984 perfume ad, gaze at Celine’s eternally youthful clothes, and ask: what is Hedi’s secret? Fashion's feistiest critic opened up about her media journey and why "good journalism is generally contentious.". Under the Saint Laurent brand, Hedi Slimane reinvigorated a long, lean silhouette. In the shadow of Les Invalides, the site of Napoleon’s tomb, Slimane jettisoned elegant trousers, silk blouses, understated knitwear and unstructured trenchcoats for dolly-sized sequin micro shifts and tiny leather skirts. LVMH's golden child surprised his audience with a range of sharp, classic staples for the customer who starts their day at 7 a.m. instead of ending it, falling into bed straight from the party. They don’t feel goofy wearing a motorcycle jacket or skateboard trousers—and what’s more, they don’t look it. My favorite silhouette was a juicy layering of slightly weather-inappropriate outerwear on the top, with skinny leather leggings, and huge! From 2012 to 2016, he was the creative director for Yves Saint Laurent. Slimane is feeding back to them their dream in the world’s finest materials. Probably not, but perhaps there’s a new market that will cling to the Hedi Slimane world of Celine, and that is men. STYLE Edit: Hedi Slimane unveils Celine’s youthful spring/ summer 2019 line. But this manner of styling also shows product perfectly. The designer's signature aesthetic of slim-cut tailoring is nothing new, but perhaps it's what we need in a post-streetwear world. When you go into a Celine shop, or look at the brand’s e-commerce, you see something so clear and intelligent it might make you mad at other big fashion brands: a few perfect blazers, a leather motorcycle jacket, a leather blouson, a suede trucker jacket, and so on. The #CelineByHediSlimane era is officially upon us. Ahead of his Fall 2021 fall collection, which debuted on Monday morning, it was easy enough to wonder, as many observers did, What’s this one going to look like?! Slimane kept Slimane-ing. It helps, of course, that the whole TikTok fashion style started with the guys who are now Celine’s primary customers—they were the men who, in the late 80s and early 90s, started mixing plaids, leathers, studs, and so on, which flowed to the east, was remixed by Korean and Chinese teenagers, and then traveled back to Gen Zers. He took particular issue to the way the Anglo-Saxon press handled his debut collection. Do you think Hedi Slimane knows how to do the Renegade? After all, everyone feels better after getting a little work done. His models are all extremely young and extremely thin, selling a very ’90s French fashion dream. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement and Your California Privacy Rights. boots! It’s the fashion equivalent of Botox—and there’s absolutely nothing cynical about it. Hedi Slimane isn’t looking for your approval. All the pants are just right. His models are not celebrities but real industry types—you’ll never see him put some Instagram superstar in a show or campaign, nor does he chase the cycle of newsworthy celebutantes that every other fashion brand is after. Hedi Slimane debuted menswear for the French fashion house in September. There are a lot of contributing factors—money is a big one—but his biggest advantage may be the way he simply understands that fashion is about desire. (The typical contemporary fashion show has 40-60 looks, and lasts about 12 minutes.) The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. Slimane roused mixed reactions for his personal incarnation of Celine – some deifying the designer and praising his return, while others heavily reprimanded the Laurent-ification of Celine, with as Slimane imposed his signature slender style onto the French brand. What might they want? As of Monday, the fashion industry is in final countdown mode to the new era of Céline — er, Celine. “It’s much more his world…Freedom, skateboarders, the beach. To revisit this article, visit My Profile, thenView saved stories. The approach isn’t empathetic like Prada or The Row (whose feeling for their customers probably comes from the fact that the designers are female), but it’s considerate. his Dancing Kid collection, a totally insane offering of TikTok clothes. Hedi Slimane en 2015 – Yann Rzepka, CC BY-SA 4.0 At last: the fountain of youth! The fashion system still works for Slimane. In turn, Slimane drew inspiration from this very music; his love of rock chic put him in the perfect position to change fashion as the New York scene was exploding. Luco Loafer in Polished Calfskin. Remember just really wanting something? Since February 1, 2018, Slimane has been the creative, artistic and image director of Celine. The Celine men’s collection was classic Slimane. The 80s Parisian nightlife theme pervades the runway. Will it be bourgeois, or TikTok craziness? It's rare that Saint Laurent creative director Hedi Slimane ever opens up to the press, but the designer has now broken his silence in a rare interview with Yahoo Style. The funny thing about all the fuss over Slimane is that his clothing is probably the most intelligently merchandised stuff on the planet. It is, yes, nouveau romantique. GQ may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. "Hedi Slimane launched a blitzkrieg on C eline, which for a decade under Phoebe Philo embodied the female gaze in fashion. The high-contrast black-and-white palette is a … It’s a much more sophisticated undertaking than, “I guess people are buying sweatpants.” He’s truly creating a wardrobe. All rights reserved. He will officially join the French fashion house in February. I think Slimane knows that rich people, maybe more than anyone else in the world, just want to look young. Daft Punk starred in the SS13 campaign in which musicians like Marilyn Manson and Marianne Faithful styled themselves in Saint Laurent. Vogue that Hedi Slimane ’ s kids in on super-skinny, 1970s-inspired silhouettes — and we ca say... Knows how to do the Renegade schism in fashion is hedi slimane style broad as the one Slimane! Thin, selling a very ’ 90s French fashion house in February site constitutes of. 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